My doll pattern - testing

April 1st - April 10th 2012

I made 3 dolls from wool in 10 days.
One of the doll is for winner from my facebook page: Katkas creations

LEGS:
With my first dolls, I used - chain 2, into first chain 6 dc
Now I use only magic ring (see photos)
R 1 - 6 dc into magic ring.

After I finished R1, I used short piece of wool at the beginning of every round - as marker, easy to keep count of rounds

LEG (make 2)

R1 - (6sts) = 6 dc in magic ring     (OR chain 2, 6dc in second chain from hook)

R2 - (6sts) dc around

R3 - (6sts) dc around

R4 - (7sts) = dc 2 in first st, dc 5

R5 - (7sts) dc around

R6 - (7sts) dc around

R7 - (8sts) dc 2 in first st, dc 6

R8 - (8sts) dc around

R9 - (8sts) dc around

R10 - (9sts) dc 2 in first st, dc 7

R11 - (9sts) dc around

R12 - (9sts) dc around

* crochet 1st leg – stuff the leg - fasten off (cut yarn), leave a short end

* crochet 2nd leg – stuff the leg - when leg is finished, do not fasten off (do not cut yarn), continue with BODY

BEGINNING OF BODY:

* flatten the last round of the second leg - crochet 4 slip stitches to close leg opening,

flatten the last round of the first leg – crochet another 4 slip stitches to close leg opening.

The legs are together NOW in 1 row, 4sts for each leg, total of 8 stitches in the last row to create the bottom of the body

* legs can bend, so doll can sits

* legs are not stitched separately to the body

BODY

R1 - dc in a back loop of each st – (8 dc on back body) /// turn the body and ///

        dc in a front loop of each st - (8 dc on front body), total of 16sts,

        do not join, again work in rounds – use a row marker

R2 - (16sts) dc around

R3 - (16sts) dc around

R4 - (16sts) dc around

R5 - (16sts) dc around

R6 - (16sts) dc around

R7 - (16sts) dc around

R8 - (16sts) dc around

R9 - (14sts) (dec 1, dc 6) repeat 2 times

R10 - (10sts) (dec 1, dc 2, dec 1, dc 1) repeat 2 times

R11 - (8sts) (dec 1, dc 3) repeat 2 times

R12 - when using wool BIGGER DOLL - (8sts) dc around

After I made legs & body. I made arms & heads.

I wanted to save body colour, so I used white wool on R 2 - R 10

Smiles are ready, just hair to make.
Already made ;-) see photos on my facebook.

MY LAST, 2nd BLOG POST (this is only 3rd) - there is written pattern for my doll - I checked the pattern & there is just one change, BODY :
old numbers R 2 to R 13 changed to new numbers R 1 to R 12
SO IT'S EASIER TO COUNT !!!
YOU CAN FIND THIS DOLL PATTERN AGAIN DOWN HERE:

** If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern, but please do not reprint it on your site.**

FREE  PATTERN   of   CROCHET  DOLL

* Work in continuous rounds, do not join the rounds.

* Use a row marker OR mark your first stitch with short piece of wool at the beginning of every round, easy to keep count of rounds.

.  -  ch  -  chain

I  -  dc  -  double crochet = US sc single crochet

V  - inc  -  increase

A  -  dec  -  invisible decrease

st(s)  -  stitch(es)

R  -  round

o  -  magic ring  /  or  /  chain 2, 6dc in second chain from hook

SMALL DOLL – used crochet thin yarn

BIGGER DOLL – used wool

HEAD 

R1 - (6sts) = 6 dc in magic ring     (OR chain 2, 6 dc in second chain from hook)

R2 - (12sts) = dc 2 in each st around

R3 - (18sts) = (dc 1, 2 dc in next st) repeat  6 times

R4 - (24sts) = (dc 2, 2 dc in next st) repeat 6 times

R5 - (30sts) = (dc 3, 2 dc in next st) repeat 6 times

R6 – R13 = dc around (30sts)

R14 - (24sts) = (dc 3, dec 1) repeat 6 times

R15 - (18sts) = (dc 2, dec 1) repeat 6 times

R16 - (12sts) = (dc 1, dec 1) repeat 6 times

R17 - (6sts) = (dec 1) repeat 6 times

when you finish R15:

*   Attached safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12 (6 sts free between eyes)

*   Embroider smile with embroidery floss (on round 14)

*   Begin stuff & shape head

when you finish R17: 

*   fasten off, leave a short end, weave in end.

head of BIGGER DOLL from wool:

R17 - (8sts) = (dc 1, dec 1) repeat 4 times

R18 - (8sts) = dc around

ARMS (make 2)

R1 - (6sts) = 6 dc in magic ring     (OR chain 2, 6dc in second chain from hook)

R2 – R10 = (6sts) = dc around

*   fasten off, leave a long ends for sewing arms to body

LEGS (make 2)

R1 - (6sts) = 6 dc in magic ring     (OR chain 2, 6dc in second chain from hook)

R2 - (6sts) dc around

R3 - (6sts) dc around

R4 - (7sts) = dc 2 in first st, dc 5

R5 - (7sts) dc around

R6 - (7sts) dc around

R7 - (8sts) dc 2 in first st, dc 6

R8 - (8sts) dc around

R9 - (8sts) dc around

R10 - (9sts) dc 2 in first st, dc 7

R11 - (9sts) dc around

R12 - (9sts) dc around

* crochet 1st leg – stuff the leg - fasten off, leave a short end

* crochet 2nd leg – stuff the leg - when leg is finished, do not fasten off (cut yarn), continue with BODY

BEGGINING OF BODY :

* flatten the last round of the second leg - crochet 4 slip stitches to close leg opening,

flatten the last round of the first leg – crochet another 4 slip stitches to close leg opening.

The legs are together NOW in 1 row, 4sts for each leg, total of 8 stitches in the last row to create the bottom of the body

* legs can bend, so doll can sits

* legs are not stitched separately to the body

BODY

R1 - dc in a back loop of each st – (8 dc on back body) /// turn the body and ///

        dc in a front loop of each st - (8 dc on front body), total of 16sts,

        do not join, again work in rounds – use a row marker

R2 - (16sts) dc around

R3 - (16sts) dc around

R4 - (16sts) dc around

R5 - (16sts) dc around

R6 - (16sts) dc around

R7 - (16sts) dc around

R8 - (16sts) dc around

R9 - (14sts) (dec 1, dc 6) repeat 2 times

R10 - (10sts) (dec 1, dc 2, dec 1, dc 1) repeat 2 times

R11 - (8sts) (dec 1, dc 3) repeat 2 times

R12 - when using wool BIGGER DOLL - (8sts) dc around

* Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing body to head.