Wednesday 16 May 2012

My doll pattern - testing

April 1st - April 10th 2012

I made 3 dolls from wool in 10 days.
One of the doll is for winner from my facebook page: Katkas creations

LEGS:
With my first dolls, I used - chain 2, into first chain 6 dc
Now I use only magic ring (see photos)
R 1 - 6 dc into magic ring.




After I finished R1, I used short piece of wool at the beginning of every round - as marker, easy to keep count of rounds

LEG (make 2)
R1 - (6sts) = 6 dc in magic ring     (OR chain 2, 6dc in second chain from hook)
R2 - (6sts) dc around
R3 - (6sts) dc around
R4 - (7sts) = dc 2 in first st, dc 5
R5 - (7sts) dc around
R6 - (7sts) dc around
R7 - (8sts) dc 2 in first st, dc 6
R8 - (8sts) dc around
R9 - (8sts) dc around
R10 - (9sts) dc 2 in first st, dc 7
R11 - (9sts) dc around
R12 - (9sts) dc around


* crochet 1st leg – stuff the leg - fasten off (cut yarn), leave a short end
* crochet 2nd leg – stuff the leg - when leg is finished, do not fasten off (do not cut yarn), continue with BODY

BEGINNING OF BODY:
* flatten the last round of the second leg - crochet 4 slip stitches to close leg opening,
flatten the last round of the first leg – crochet another 4 slip stitches to close leg opening.
The legs are together NOW in 1 row, 4sts for each leg, total of 8 stitches in the last row to create the bottom of the body
* legs can bend, so doll can sits
* legs are not stitched separately to the body



BODY
R1 - dc in a back loop of each st – (8 dc on back body) /// turn the body and ///
        dc in a front loop of each st - (8 dc on front body), total of 16sts,
        do not join, again work in rounds – use a row marker
R2 - (16sts) dc around
R3 - (16sts) dc around
R4 - (16sts) dc around


R5 - (16sts) dc around
R6 - (16sts) dc around
R7 - (16sts) dc around
R8 - (16sts) dc around
R9 - (14sts) (dec 1, dc 6) repeat 2 times
R10 - (10sts) (dec 1, dc 2, dec 1, dc 1) repeat 2 times
R11 - (8sts) (dec 1, dc 3) repeat 2 times

R12 - when using wool BIGGER DOLL - (8sts) dc around


After I made legs & body. I made arms & heads.


I wanted to save body colour, so I used white wool on R 2 - R 10






Smiles are ready, just hair to make.
Already made ;-) see photos on my facebook.

MY LAST, 2nd BLOG POST (this is only 3rd) - there is written pattern for my doll - I checked the pattern & there is just one change, BODY :
old numbers R 2 to R 13 changed to new numbers R 1 to R 12
SO IT'S EASIER TO COUNT !!!
YOU CAN FIND THIS DOLL PATTERN AGAIN DOWN HERE:

** If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern, but please do not reprint it on your site.**



FREE  PATTERN   of   CROCHET  DOLL

* Work in continuous rounds, do not join the rounds.
* Use a row marker OR mark your first stitch with short piece of wool at the beginning of every round, easy to keep count of rounds.

.  -  ch  -  chain
I  -  dc  -  double crochet = US sc single crochet
V  - inc  -  increase
A  -  dec  -  invisible decrease
st(s)  -  stitch(es)
R  -  round
o  -  magic ring  /  or  /  chain 2, 6dc in second chain from hook

SMALL DOLL – used crochet thin yarn
BIGGER DOLL – used wool

HEAD 
R1 - (6sts) = 6 dc in magic ring     (OR chain 2, 6 dc in second chain from hook)
R2 - (12sts) = dc 2 in each st around
R3 - (18sts) = (dc 1, 2 dc in next st) repeat  6 times
R4 - (24sts) = (dc 2, 2 dc in next st) repeat 6 times
R5 - (30sts) = (dc 3, 2 dc in next st) repeat 6 times
R6 – R13 = dc around (30sts)
R14 - (24sts) = (dc 3, dec 1) repeat 6 times
R15 - (18sts) = (dc 2, dec 1) repeat 6 times
R16 - (12sts) = (dc 1, dec 1) repeat 6 times
R17 - (6sts) = (dec 1) repeat 6 times

when you finish R15:
*   Attached safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12 (6 sts free between eyes)
*   Embroider smile with embroidery floss (on round 14)
*   Begin stuff & shape head
when you finish R17: 
*   fasten off, leave a short end, weave in end.

head of BIGGER DOLL from wool:
R17 - (8sts) = (dc 1, dec 1) repeat 4 times
R18 - (8sts) = dc around

ARMS (make 2)
R1 - (6sts) = 6 dc in magic ring     (OR chain 2, 6dc in second chain from hook)
R2 – R10 = (6sts) = dc around

*   fasten off, leave a long ends for sewing arms to body

LEGS (make 2)
R1 - (6sts) = 6 dc in magic ring     (OR chain 2, 6dc in second chain from hook)
R2 - (6sts) dc around
R3 - (6sts) dc around
R4 - (7sts) = dc 2 in first st, dc 5
R5 - (7sts) dc around
R6 - (7sts) dc around
R7 - (8sts) dc 2 in first st, dc 6
R8 - (8sts) dc around
R9 - (8sts) dc around
R10 - (9sts) dc 2 in first st, dc 7
R11 - (9sts) dc around
R12 - (9sts) dc around

* crochet 1st leg – stuff the leg - fasten off, leave a short end
* crochet 2nd leg – stuff the leg - when leg is finished, do not fasten off (cut yarn), continue with BODY

BEGGINING OF BODY :
* flatten the last round of the second leg - crochet 4 slip stitches to close leg opening,
flatten the last round of the first leg – crochet another 4 slip stitches to close leg opening.
The legs are together NOW in 1 row, 4sts for each leg, total of 8 stitches in the last row to create the bottom of the body
* legs can bend, so doll can sits
* legs are not stitched separately to the body

BODY
R1 - dc in a back loop of each st – (8 dc on back body) /// turn the body and ///
        dc in a front loop of each st - (8 dc on front body), total of 16sts,
        do not join, again work in rounds – use a row marker
R2 - (16sts) dc around
R3 - (16sts) dc around
R4 - (16sts) dc around
R5 - (16sts) dc around
R6 - (16sts) dc around
R7 - (16sts) dc around
R8 - (16sts) dc around
R9 - (14sts) (dec 1, dc 6) repeat 2 times
R10 - (10sts) (dec 1, dc 2, dec 1, dc 1) repeat 2 times
R11 - (8sts) (dec 1, dc 3) repeat 2 times

R12 - when using wool BIGGER DOLL - (8sts) dc around

* Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing body to head.

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